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Adventures in woodworking

ScottPScottP Senior MemberPosts: 480 Senior Member
Replacing an outside bay window and had to make about 50 lf of moulding so I break out the router table. First time I've used a vertical panel raising bit; buried the needle on the pucker factor meter. Two passes and it turned out pretty good; all 10 fingers still intact.

They say the times are changing but I just don't know


  • JulietJuliet Posts: 0
    How tall is that bit?

    I've done some mid-sized crown moulding for a fireplace I built. 1/2" shank, about 2" tall bit, running 8 foot pieces of maple. The pucker wasn't so bad, I used a full height fence (actually about 2" higher than the bit), buried the bit in the fence, set up a pretty comprehensive set of featherboards, but still found I desperately wanted an auto-feed set up. AFter all that, the final milling came out only okay (some burn marks and tear out), although the final product (the fireplace surrond and mantle) is pretty fantastic. The flaws in the milling actuallly add to the period look.
  • ScottPScottP Senior Member Posts: 480 Senior Member
    The cutter is 1 5/8" ogee on a 1/2" shank. Since this is all exterior, I'm using synthetic (versatex) 5/8" stock, which is why I had to make my own moulding. All the milled stock is 11/16" and just a bit too thick. I have the full tall fence and buried the cutter in a disposable masonite insert that conforms to the bit profile to keep tearout to minimum; fingerboards on infeed, outfeed and overhead to keep everything where it should be. Probably most important was to enclose the back side of the cutter with a port for shopvac - that stuff generates an amazing amount of waste and it wants to cling to everything.

    They say the times are changing but I just don't know
  • P.DieterP.Dieter Super Moderator Posts: 968 Senior Member
    all repetitive cuts make me nervous. My outfeed table might be one of the best safety additions in my shop in recent years.

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